Big eyes watching me...

Watching the moon at the ferry.

Last days in Sulawesi :´( From Togean we took a night ferry to Gorontalo, the only way to get towards north. Over 12 hours in a huge boat full of mostly local people, who also mostly took a cabin. We bought the cheapest tickets and slept outside on the deck. Which was really nice, the weather was good, not many people outside in the night and even visiting the business class made me shiver. What's the idea of A/C if you need to put on all your clothes and use 2 sleeping bags and still be freezing???

In the morning in Gorontalo we booked into Malati hotel for a few nights. Nice place, really helpful (sometimes even too helpful) staff and free WIFI!!! :) Yea finally online!!!

On the 2nd day we tried to hike to a waterfall but once again, it started to rain and we had to turn back. So we were sliding in the muddy jungle trying not to fall down to spiky plants which were everywhere. All well, after about an hour we got back to the village, wet and had only slightly bloody feet. But I saw a black macaque on the way!!! And I also had a photo session, once again...

I still wanted to see a tarsier before leaving Sulawesi so no other choice than to jump into a kijang again and sit in the car for 13 hours to get to Tangkoko National Park in the northern tip of Sulawesi. And yeah, I finally saw the funniest little monkey with huge eyes and little tiny fingers. So cute!!! Worth all the traveling hours!

Pia is not happy to leave Sulawesi.

And then it was time to leave Sulawesi, snif... We spent the last night in a horrific hotel in Manado and in the morning I left to the airport, Elly back to Togeans. Take a guess into which car I would have rather stepped into... Now I've spent 2 days in Singapore and tomorrow it's time to move on towards Nepal. I try to get excited. And I will for sure the moment I land!!!

Pemalas at Togean Islands...

Pia kiipes palmuun!

Lazy days. After a horrific ride with a local boat in a storm (yes, I was near thinking we'll die...) we got to a small island Poya Lisa near Bomba in Togean. Looked like a paradise and to be honest, if you are a beach&ocean -person, it for sure is! Just a few bungalows, a family owned business and some extremely nice locals bringing you out for snorkeling for free.

I had an own bungalow and 3 fish based fantastic meals a day and they only cost me 11 e a day. Basically nothing, I think I have to move there! The days included only laying in a hammock, listen to waves (or a finnish dude playing ukulele or Elly singing on the pier) and maybe some snorkeling in the clean turquoise sea. And some party in the evenings of course. I thought I'd stay only a few days, then go to Manado and make it still to Kalimantan or Java but why, I can always go there the next time I come to Asia. Which will be in September... So I stayed at Poya Lisa bungalow number 4 (MY bungalow) for a week. Not long enough. Next time it'll be a month. Or months.

I had met only a few finns before I came Bomba but we ended up taking over the place. We were 4! Meaning half of the guests. And all traveling alone, ending up in the same island in the middle of Sulawesi sea. Thank you Juuso, Markus and Taneli for the fantastic time! And of course the rest of the group, especially Oli and Viara.

Only shitty thing happening was that I lost my phone in the first evening. After the 3-hour boat ride in big waves & rain I just needed a beer. And another one. A bit of arak (palm wine) and of course the finnish company also influenced the fact that the evening turned into a night. I probably used the phone as a torch when coming back to my bungalow and haven't seen it since. Shit. I don't care about the phone, but the sim-card & all the numbers. And I can't get a new sim for quite a while. :( But what ever, I loved it there!

After the fantastic week in Poya Lisa I left the island with Elly to visit some more islands at Togean. We stayed one night in Wakai at his mom's house. No one else of the family speaked english and my bahasa indonesia is...well...really, really basic so no big conversations. But nice to stay in with a local family, which was also a brilliant one, especially the kids Ipa and Epan. Funny dudes!

From Wakai we went on to Una Una, a volcano islands about 3 hours away. Elly's cousins also joined us on their way back home and we stayed 3 nights at his uncles, Bakikis, house on the beach. Again, the family spoke hardly any english but hands and few words here and there worked just fine. And of course arak and tuak (jungle beer) makes speaking in languages easier...

I CATHED A FISH!!!

My plan was to climb the volcano but the weather didn't allow it and we had to turn back half way. But what ever, we went fishing instead. Great night, first a few hours fishing, and I actually also GOT fish, then grilling and eating them accompanied by some more arak and the best company, Amat, Obi and of course Elly. I miss the place and the people already sooo much. Only thing I don't miss was the fact that the toilet was the jungle. And being the only foreigner on the island of course everyone was staring all the time where ever I went to and also asked me every time mana, mana, di mana, dari mana??? Yea, what do you think where I'm going to???

Boys got fish too!

After Una Una it was time to get an own bungalow again at Sunset Beach near Wakai. Owned by indonesian-english couple. And take a guess, of course there were again finnish people, this time 2 couples. So we were 5 finns, one french lady and Elly. I still have to wonder how all the finns end up in that place, I met no swedes, no norwegians, no danes, only finns. On the first night Elly and I picked up a “few” liters of tuak from the local village and ended up finishing it all. Which made me quite sick on the 2nd day. But well, where's a hammock, there's a happy Pia.

On the 3rd day we went for a swim in a lake which is isolated from the sea and full of jellyfish. Which don't sting! So you can swim among them, touch them and just be mesmerized. I took loads of pics and of course my “waterproof” camera broke up at some point. Got the pics but the camera is dead. So now I've lost my phone, broke my 2nd camera and also lost my good sunglasses in Toraja. Oh well... As long as I have my passport & credit card I'm just fine. After the swim it was time to leave Togeans (snif :´((( ) and take a ferry to Gorontalo. More about that later...

Bloody funeral

Been busy, been lazy, been without internet for quite a while. So here's the first update of Sulawesi, more coming up later this week... The internet connection sucks at the moment so I'll upload more pics later

I left Makassar behind me as quickly as I could and took a night bus to Rantepao, a small town in Tana Toraja, South Sulawesi. I had high expectations, as the start in Sulawesi wasn't really promising and I already was considering of taking quite quickly a plane back to Borneo or somewhere else in Indonesia. But as always, things turned and Sulawesi started to grow on me and now I love the place, a lot!!!

Tana Toraja is famous for its really, I mean REALLY bloody funerals and bizarre graves on rock formations. There are loads of rice terraces around the beautiful hill landscape and behind every curve&corner pops up funny houses with skillful wood carvings and boat lookalike roofs.

I took a guide for one day as I wanted to visit a funeral in a nearby village. The funerals can last from few days to few weeks, depending how wealthy the family is. But they always include a lot of slaughtering: usually at least pigs and buffalos. I came on the buffalo day. And it was bloody. Originally the belief was that the deceased person needs the buffalos for traveling to the local Valhalla. Now the people of Toraja are christians so the ride isn't necessary anymore, but they still respect the traditional habits and mix old beliefs with christianity.

So, after the priest finished praying and singing they picked up the buffalos which would be slaughtered. Eight were chosen and over half of them were also slaughtered. They give villages also buffalos and they can decide, if they want them to be slaughtered & eaten or auction it and use the money for something else.

The funerals aren't as sad as in Finland, nobody was crying on that day. Instead they sold balloons for kids, beer for grown ups and local guys were playing cards. Well... why not?

On the next day I rented a scooter and was driving by myself around the burial sites and nearby villages. That's they way I like to move on anyways, make my own timetables, go where I want to and hopefully get lost a few times. It was a good day! I also met a few dutch ppl and a finnish girl and had a traditional dinner with them. Good food, but nope, I'm for sure not in Thailand. I miss Tom Yam. But to be honest the food would be the only reason for me to go back to Thailand especially as there are places like Borneo and Indonesia just behind the corner. And to here I'm for sure coming back.

Anyways, from Rantepao I took a bus again towards central Sulawesi. The plan was to go to the remote Togean islands and spend a few days there snorkeling & relaxing. In the bus I met finnish & austrian guys who were heading to the same direction. We made a 2 nights stop at Tentena, a bit over half way to the islands. It was a sleepy small town, very nice people and they had a cool waterfall about 30 minutes scooter drive away from town. I rented a scooter together with Juuso and went there in the afternoon. We had a nice lunch with a bunch of students from Poso, I cant remember any of the names anymore but I've got loads of pics of their faces. A good day! And then it was time to move on towards Togean... More about that paradise later... I didn't stay only a few days...

Read only if you want to hear me bitching

Asia for beginners -crash course is now over, I've landed in Indonesia. Okay, I can only blame myself as I didn't want to follow the beaten path and go to Java or Bali but decided to make it difficult for myself and explore Sulawesi.

In beforehand I had thought Borneo would be the place where things get difficult but no, I hadn't seen this place yet. I flew from Kuching to Singapore and yes, I've got to admit that Changi lives up to its reputation. Everything WORKS. Not like the next place I had to change planes: Jakarta. NOTHING works. No signs and no staff who knows something. I asked the check-in crew and also the flight attendants if I have to clear customs&get my visa in Jakarta or in Makassar. All told me its in Makassar. But no, actually I had to do it in Jakarta and I also had to change terminals between the flights, with a bus. Which leaves from departures level, not arrivals level. What???

All this would have been nice to know. Lion Air crew told me that I just have to get to the next gate. It took me about an hour to figure out what's even happening and how to get to the other terminal, as everybody is very helpful but don't have a clue what they are telling me. And no guys, I don't want to have your phone numbers and yes, I am traveling alone. I had a good flirt with the immigration officer though, as always haha.

As I finally got to the right plane at least it was nice from the captain to speak also sometimes english. I was the only foreigner in the plane. Luckily next to me sat a nice local dude who was more than helpful, especially as we at some point started to turn and I only understood the word “Bali” from the speakers. Due to bad weather the plane couldn't land in Makassar but had to turn to Bali instead. But I had good chats with Sam and at the end (3AM) we finally reached our destination. I had left the hostel 8AM so it was quite a journey, considering I was only going from Borneo to Sulawesi...

Next problem: bus tickets. No, I can't buy them in the hotel, online or from travel agents in town. I have to go to the bus company's base and for sure they aren't located near to each others or in the town center. So if the bus is full, you have to travel somewhere else and keep your fingers crossed. Meaning get the ticket in advance! I decided to walk to the office but as always, I was getting really confusing information from everyone so taxi was at the end the best option. The busses are really cheap, but after paying taxis there and back and once more there well, that kind of doubles the price. Yes I know I could make it difficult to myself and go with the local mini-busses but it rains like hell, I haven't really slept and I feel like complaining. If you read the blog this far I hope you enjoyed me having a bad day. But if you did it from Finland I'm sure you aren't enjoying the snowrain either haha!

Now to Tana Toraja with a bus, which hopefully leaves in time, takes me to the destination safely and has a toilet. And no pics on this page as I haven't shot any. After TaTor I probably head to Togean Islands for Padi OWD if my bank account allows it.

P.S. ...and all this might have been just me trying to find an excuse to go back to Borneo. Eroahdistus!

The frogs & I. And a tattoo!!!

Last day in Borneo. And that makes me really sad. I've grown to love this place, a lot. But I assume it's time to move on, see new places & meet new people. But Sulawesi's better be fantastic or I'll take the next flight back to Borneo. I anyways probably come back here (Kalimantan or maybe even Sabah) for a week or two before my flight to Nepal mid April. But that's something I'll decide later. I might fall in love with Indonesia too, though I doubt it. Which usually means I will haha.

I've spent the last week in Kuching, a lovely small town in Sarawak doing not really much. Because I got a new tattoo! And it's amazing! (jeez I'm using lots of exclamation points...!!!) I had to get a permanent reminder of the fantastic time with the bears (and beer and boys= holy B's :) in Sepilok so I got a pic of Bermuda, the dominant male, tattooed behind my leg. And around it iban tribals made traditional way, which was an experience to remember, I enjoyed every minute even though my facial expression might have told otherwise. Thanks so much Ernesto & Robin (www.borneoheadhunter.com)

Roberto came along and shot some cool pics, so here's a few:

On my last day I went to Santubong, a peninsula about 40 km from Kuching. I thought of doing a short hike and then relax on the beach with a book. But as usual I ended up trekking & climbing for 6 hours (return) to the summit of Santubong mountain, which was for sure worth the time. And sweat. I still don't know how it's possible to sweat so much, all the time. I'd think at some point I'd get used to the climate. But no. But I still enjoy EVERY sweaty moment!!!

I spent quite a while on a small waterfall on the way looking at frogs. Small cute things with camouflage, too lovely!!! The rainforest was again a place to be called paradise, I could imagine building a hut and spending rest of my life there. Not maybe on that one, but the one in Mulu. Ha, maybe I should?

After the hike I had about 20 minutes to spend on the beach. Can't say I really enjoyed it, I was being a tourist attraction for the locals again. Some dude wanted to join me and offered me even beer but nope, really, leave me alone if I'm sweaty and looking very tired. And when I left with the shuttle back to Kuching the driver showed me a photo he had taken earlier. Of me, sitting on the beach. C'mon people!

Yep, this is it :( Got to pack now. I might shear a few tears at the airport tomorrow.

Feeding wild boars at Bako

A paradise called Bako

Near Kuching, about 30 minutes drive with a minivan & 20 minutes boat ride is Bako national park. It's so near the town that it's a popular day visit destination also for locals, which in a normal case would mean it's overcrowded and dirty, basically ruined. But no, it's absolutely an amazing, serene nature heaven with colorful rock formations, mangrove forests, isolated beaches and jungle of course!

Sure, there are some people during the day but not too many. F.ex. we had the Pandan Kecil beach alone for us (us=our international travel group since Mulu: Cecilia from Australia, Sudda from Sri Lanka, Roberto from Italy and I). Dipping into the sea after a few hours trekking sounded like THE IDEA, but it was not really refreshing as the water was warmer than the air. Nice nevertheless.

There's lots of treks around the park, we did a few of them, enjoyed watching proboscis monkeys both near a beach as well as on the highland during a trek. We also made some close contacts with macaques, who raided our kitchen and ate all the food. They actually opened the kitchen door, emptied the fridge and left all the rubbish in front of our lodge. And that's where the wild boars were having a fiesta. Cecilia and Sudda weren't too happy to be out of chocolate but at least we had a good laugh.

Sudda vs. baby wild boar. Sudda won.

We stayed in the park for one night. I also tried to play an asian board game called Carrom. I might have to practice some more...

Yesterday we came back to Kuching and I changed to the Threehouse hostel where the rest of the group was also staying. I might go back to Bako next week or to some other national park near Kuching. Or to Kalimantan. Or to Java. No idea! And I like it that way!

Today I have a tattoo appointment with Ernesto (www.borneoheadhunter.com), I'm getting a silhouette pic of Bermuda the Sun Bear behind my right leg and a traditional iban tribal around the leg. Made traditional technique. Ouch. More about that later...

Gunung Mulu: caves in a rainforest

So, I finally left Sepilok behind (snif :´(, I miss you guys!!!) and took a flight to Mulu National Park, which is famous for it's amazing, huge, I mean HUGE caves and the untouched rainforest, recognized also by UNESCO.

I had pre-booked the accommodation in the park headquarters and a trip to pinnacle formations in the middle of the rainforest. The flight from Miri to Mulu (luckily there's no roads to this paradise) was already more than promising, the sights from the plane were breathtaking, forests (not oil palm plantations), a snake-look-alike river and clouded mountains. I literarily landed in the lost world. I took it easy on the first eve, did only a 2 km walk to Moonmilk cave. Early on the 2nd day our group headed with a boat towards Camp 5 in the rainforest.

On the way we stopped on 2 caves, the Clearwater and Cave of the Wind. There would also have been a possibility for caving but had to skip this time, I hadn't planned enough days :( But that's a reason to come back! What I for sure will do!

The boat ride from the caves took us along a clear river maybe 45 minutes to a river bench from where we had to walk good 8 km to the camp. I was expecting a very basic, shaggy place with basically no facilities but nope, even the toilets were superb. I had booked the cheapest, most simple trip meaning I had to cook myself and also carry the food to the camp. So I had instant noodles/pasta and crackers for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Yummy...?

We climbed/trekked to the pinnacles on the 2nd day. The guides told us it'll take about 5-6 hours return but it also might take up to 10-11 hours. Half of our group was quite fit and after 1 hour we divided it into 2 groups. Okay, the climb was not easy but also not as hard as I was told in beforehand. It is a trek on a steep mountain, through a jungle and the path is muddy and very slippery. So yes, you have to be fit if you want to make it before it gets dark again. Our group left the camp at 6 am and came back 1 pm with taking long breaks in between. We spent maybe 45 minutes in the top admiring the rock formations while the other trekkers were still on the way up. And that was really rewarding. Absolutely out of this world! Sharp rock formation popping up from the rainforest everywhere! Surreal!

And back in the camp I basically run to the river. I might have been sweating “a bit”. Like in the last 2 months all the time.

On my last day in Mulu one of the guides who was hanging out with us most of time took us to a hill to from where were fantastic views to the mountains as it was full moon. And of course it's more fun to hang out in the darkness when you have loads of beer with you :) I just have to love this country and it's people! How am I supposed to be able to leave? If things go on like this I might just skip Indonesia and stay here. I <3 Borneo. Now I just came to Kuching and the first impressions of this town are really positive. I'm gonna like it here I'm sure.

Btw I'm out of salmiakki!!! I might have to make a trip to Ikea quite soon, though the nearest one is in Singapore... :/ Unless some of you is coming over and can bring me some supplies???