Oishii Nippon!

So I learned only one new word in japanese, oishii! Better than nothing!

My reason to go to Japan was simple: FOOD. I love japanese food. All of it. Even all the weird & suspicious stuff end up being delicious. I could never live in this country as I'd never stop eating.

I had sushi every day, at least once. I had it for breakfast, lunch and for dinner. Onigiris between meal times and rice crackers for snacks. I also really like Asahi, the local beer, but during the 5 days I only had a few pints. Really expensive in bars and c'mon, if I can get a portion of sushi for the price of one can of beer, it's hardly a competition. I also think that I've had enough beer in the last months and need a break now... Until Alaska...

Maho likes oysters!

Luckily I had the chance to stay at Maho's place, a japanese girl who was recently studying in Finland for 7 months. She had a really nice place in a scandinavian look-a-like house in Kaminoge and she also once cooked chicken teriyaki for me. Delicous!!! Thanx again for everything Maho!!!

I did one trip outside of Tokyo, to Hakone. Beautiful serene place where you can do a round trip using trains, mountain railway, rope way, boat and bus. On clear days the view is amazing, as you can capture Mt. Fuji's reflection on the lake Ashi-no-ko. Well, of course it wasn't clear on the day I went there but I still got to see the holy volcano from the train on the way to Hakone before the clouds closed in. In Hakone I had udon noodles and tempura. Oishii!

I also visited the open air museum in Hakone. If all museums would be like this I'd be hanging around in them all the time.

Otherwise I just strolled around Tokyo, sometimes with Maho, sometimes alone. My feet hurt. I also went to one metal bar, Godz, but it was too loud, air-con was turned on too cold and beer too expensive. I so much rather sit on my (okay, and Kate's...) window table at Tom&Jerry in KTM. Or go to see sumo training!

China, it was nice to know you

I won't be back. Now I've seen the pandas, tasted some local foods (suffered for 2 days afterwards) and that's all I need from this country. I do have to admit that the people were more friendly than I expected and they did not try to walk over me but this country just never has been appealing to me. My opinion also didn't change during this short visit. I also can't deal with all this shouting and spitting. This country must be full of deaf people.

And no, this has nothing to do with the fact that I terribly miss Nepal and would so much rather be there.

But yea, Pandas were cute.

So were the red pandas.

Chengdu not so.

We went to the chinese opera. Laughed a lot (no it was not a comedy).

We did some speed dating in a park.

And the highlight of the trip was Toby, MY small kitten. Kate unpacked him from my backpack the morning we left.

And now I'm in Tokyo for 5 days, that means a few kilos of SUSHI!!!

Nepal, u did it again...

This time we spent altogether 6 weeks in Nepal. China cancelled Tibet but really, I honestly can't say that I was really unhappy about it as I always enjoy the time in my favorite country. And to Tibet we'll go next year.

In the last week after we came back from Langtang we went with Tashi to Bimal Nagar, a place between Pokhara and Kathmandu for some more climbing. It was finally time for me to climb my first multi-pitches!!!

On the first day we climbed a 80 meter high wall. I lead climbed 2 parts, Tashi one. This was also the first time for me belaying from the top but I got good advises in before hand and yea, belaying with a gri gri is always a pleasure, compared to atc f.ex. The route was maybe 5c-6a, with the difficult parts in the 1st and 2nd pitch. At the top we enjoyed the view with cold beers :)

The next day we did a 6 c multi-pitch, so much harder and I was quite desperate at times. But after the difficult part (2-4 bolts) all was fine & a few fingers bleeding but it was so much fun!!! Can't wait to do some more climbing, hopefully in California or latest in Alaska.

In the last evening in Kathmandu we met up with our Nepali boys for some dal bhat and beers. Got some snacks too, small pieces of cow head... Yummy???

Kate got a tattoo!

And beer!!!

Thanx for everything, for the good time, all the help and a great last evening Tapan, Tashi, Chitra, MacGyver & Kuman! We'll miss u! See you soon! Let's see if I can wait until next year before I book flights to KTM again...

Hoboing in the Himalayas

Forget planking, hoboing is the new trend, developed in the Himalayas. All you need is a local alcohol product preferably in a small bottle (easier to hide) and a location to enjoy the act.

Hobo in a hot spring.

Pile of crap disguised as a bridge. You can't fool a hobo!

Hobo in a local pharmacy disguised as a ganja field. You can't fool a hobo!

Hanging hobo.

You can take the hobo out of hobboton but you can't take the hobboton out of a hobo.

Hobo in Hobboton.

Hobo on a hill.

Coyak disguised as a yak. Can't fool a hobo!

Local trash bin disguised as a plastic recycling station. Can't fool a hobo!

Local raksi distillery disguised as a meteorological station. Can't fool a hobo!

Trekking in Langtang

Still in Nepal. The lovely China decided to change rules for Tibet-visa, again, actually for the 3rd time since we are here, and this time we would have had to be 4 people of the same nationality in the group going over the border. Well, not going to happen... Not too easy to find 3 finns and 3 polish who want to leave to Tibet on the exact same day as we do. But what ever, one more reason to dislike China and one more reason to stay in Nepal!

And to do some climbing, now also in Hattiban, about 30 min drive away from Kathmando.

But to be stuck for weeks in KTM wasn't really an option so we decided to go to Langtang for trekking. Other option would have been Chitwan, but as we've already been there and it was anyways time to move our lazy asses and maybe get a bit rid of the quickly forming beer belly... So we took a local bus for 9 hours to Suafru Besi where was absolutely no space for legs but apparently space for all the local people wanting to have a ride. We eventually also got there, I was dying on the way a few times, I still can't get used to sitting in a death trap called a bus for hours on the steep serpentine roads. But still, what views we had on the way, amazing!!! This is one of the most beautiful countries I've ever been to for sure.

Early in the morning we left towards Langtang Valley, planning to do a trek for 5-6 days. 3 days up, maybe spending a day in Kyanjin Gomba and then 2 days down. Ha, that's what we thought, but should have know better. We took it easy on the way up, Kate was trying to hurry and do ridiculous days but nope, I'm on holiday and yea maybe we should also acclimatise as we were going to over 4000 meters.

The first surprise was the local plantae. Hmmm...

We stayed in Lama Hotel for the first night, cheap rooms, 200 rupees but the more higher you go, the more expensive the food & drinks are. The most ridiculous was beer for 600 rupees, hell no. But yea, understandable, the people have to carry everything up.

On the second day we reached Langtang village, a small cozy place with an excellent bakery & cheese factory. And the VIEW!!! We thought this is it, but nope, on the next day after 2 hours trek we came to the final destination, Kyanjin Gomba, and yep, it was a place with just ridiculous views, do these kinds of places really exist???

We weren't too tired after the short walk so we started to climb to Kyanjin Ri, a peak in 4700 meters.

Surprisingly our legs felt fine after the 3 days so we thought of going down already on the next day. The plan was to stay one night somewhere on the way but yea, should have know better, of course we walked all the way back to Suafry Besi in one day. At the end it took us 13 hours and we came back in the dark wearing headlamps. Kate's foot was fucked, in all of our feet were quite a few blistered. Bad idea.

Especially as we were stuck in Suafry Besi for a few days coz of a general strike in Nepal. The busses didn't run and the jeeps were either full or the driver didn't want to risk it as there were barricades on the way and people threw rocks at vehicles. On the second day also our little village decided to take part on the event and built “barricades”. Hmmm... And the “mob” was playing cards in the shade...

We managed to get seats on one jeep and it left in the afternoon towards Kathmandu. I was sitting in the front with Kate so it was our job to clear the “barricades” on the way. Well, at the end we only had to move a few rocks. We got back to KTM safe after 5 hours and still here, happy to be in Nepal. Tomorrow I'm off to climb my first multi-pitch in Bimal Nagar with Tashi. Can't wait!!!

What to do, Kathmandu?

From Karnali we went to Bardia National Park for some rhino spotting. There was also a small chance that we might see tigers, but we weren't too lucky this time. It was a fun few days anyways in the nature, walking around in the local villages and hanging in hammocks. We saw 3 rhinos, not from as close distance as in Chitwan last year coz we were on foot but still a precious moment. I just love those creatures with funny ears. Near the park headquarters hangs out a domesticated rhino who's horn I managed to touch. How huge my smile must have been.

From Bardia we took a bus back to Kathmandu, jayzuz, 17 hours in a local bus who used only one driver. Never, ever again! I probably don't have to tell how much I didn't sleep... But it was nice to back “home” again, I really, really like this city. There's something special in this place.

As usual, ever since we've been hanging out a lot in Borderlands office who organizes lots of stuff for us, big thanx especially to Chitra!!! These are also the people we've been having beers with in the evening, sometimes with things getting a bit out of hand. Thanks to Kate for good ideas, having rum in the Monkey temple in the middle of the night was quite a lot of fun.

But it's not been only hanging around here and having beers, I finally go to go climbing again! I haven't been on the walls since January and yea, I could really notice that. Chitra and a few other guys from Borderlands came along as well as Tashi, a local mountaineering guide who's also in a pro level on rock climbing. We went to Nagarjun National Park in Kathmandu where you need a permit for climbing and also as an individual you can't get one, it has to be applied by an agency. Luckily we've got contacts :)

On the next day Tashi's friends were on the walls also so we managed to join them in their permit and went climbing again. This time it was a bit better, as on the first day I was a quite of an disaster because of a small hang over and huge lack of sleep.

But really, I need to climb more. I hope I get new chances latest in Alaska. My arms and back are really sore, too much lack on practice.

Tomorrow morning we move on to the Borderlands camp near Tibetan border and on 12th of May we should be jumping into a jeep/minibus and drive to Lhasa via Himalaya. I hope that'll also happen as there has been a big land slide on the road near Everest and at the moment the road is closed :( Keep your fingers crossed!!!

Rafting down Karnali

Back in Nepal!!!

Finally time to do some updates again. Mid April I landed in one of my absolute favorite countries in the world, Nepal. And of course the partner in crime, Kate, landed a few hours later as she for sure couldn't let me come back here alone. And nothing suits me better!

The first few days we spent in Kathmandu having beers & dinners with friends from last time. We also got a local meal cooked by Tapan, a rafting guide we met last year. And he served us one of the best curries I've had so far in this country. Extra points for the huge amount of coriander and orange vodka.

We also managed to drag our asses out in the day time and went to see Boudhanath, a huge stupa in the outskirts of Kathmandu and we did a day trip to Bhaktapur, a medieval city quite near Kathmandu together with Chitra. But all this was just to kill time before the real purpose of the trip, rafting down Karnali for 10 days.

All was a bit uncertain as the minimum size of the group was 6 and in the beginning there was only 2... But a few days later two norwegians, Erik and Birgit, found their ways to Ultimate Descents office and agreed to join. And finally Nienka from Holland showed up and even though we were only 5, it was decided the trip will take place. Nothing made us happier than the phone call from Chitra telling us the good news. At that moment we were hanging out in a buddhist monastery in Shivapura national park trying to enjoy the peace and quietness. Well, nice experience too but one night was for sure enough for this little lady.

So, enough with this tourist nonsense, let's move on to the river!!!

The trip to Karnali started with 2 days in the bus driving to the western parts of Nepal. The night we spent in a dodgy guesthouse where I had probably all the bed bugs of the country in my bed. The next day I was full of bites, they were absolutely everywhere covering every inch of my skin. But well, bites go away and 4 tablets of antihistamin almost stopped the itching.

The river trip started near a small village where we camped at the first of many sandy beaches. We of course attracted the attention of all the kids (and also grown ups) of the village. I dunno what's so interesting in staring people eat, walk, speak or go to the toilet... Honestly, is there nothing better to do?

But c'mon, the river! Amazing! Clean turquoise water running between sandy riverbanks and mountains in the background. This must be one of the most beautiful places I've ever been to. In the first few days we had the biggest rapids but as we were only 4 girls in the raft we got paddling help from Buddha (who was mainly in the gear boat) and Randy the shark (2nd rafting guide) for the difficult parts. Meaning we were enjoying and the guys, David being the main guide, doing most of the work. And that way it went on the next days too. We took it really easy in the raft, the river moved the boat with a help of occasionally paddling. We did lots of relaxing, swimming and lying in the raft enjoying the view, breeze and company.

Team Nepal was really cool, Kate & I knew a few of them already from last year. The safety kayakers Brian & Indiana Jones tried to teach us kayaking the year before and we failed miserably. So new try again, I took over one of the kayaks for half a day on the 4th day and actually managed to kayak a class 3 rapid without turning over. Which was good as I don't have a clue how to do the eskimo roll and I'm sure Indiana Jones was quite happy he didn't have to be saving me all the time. At least he got good laughs watching me in panic in the big waves.

And we had a MacGyver in the gear boat. The man who fixed the boat with his spit, builded a helicopter while rowing the boat and constructed an oven while everyone else was still sleeping. Good to have him around, dunno how else our tents would have stayed up in the sand storms.

At some point we run out of beer, which is kind of a disaster for group of 2 norwegians, a finn and a polish. On the last night we camped near a village so we finally got stocked up again. And also managed to get a bottle of local rice wine. Yea I know I should keep my fingers out of the stuff but well, I just like it. Fun evening with very bad jokes.

So all in all we spent a fantastic week at Karnali, if you got a chance to go there, do it! We for sure will be doing another longer rafting trip next year in Nepal again.

P.S. Kate is saying hello to her mom.