Hoboing in the Himalayas

Forget planking, hoboing is the new trend, developed in the Himalayas. All you need is a local alcohol product preferably in a small bottle (easier to hide) and a location to enjoy the act.

Hobo in a hot spring.

Pile of crap disguised as a bridge. You can't fool a hobo!

Hobo in a local pharmacy disguised as a ganja field. You can't fool a hobo!

Hanging hobo.

You can take the hobo out of hobboton but you can't take the hobboton out of a hobo.

Hobo in Hobboton.

Hobo on a hill.

Coyak disguised as a yak. Can't fool a hobo!

Local trash bin disguised as a plastic recycling station. Can't fool a hobo!

Local raksi distillery disguised as a meteorological station. Can't fool a hobo!

Trekking in Langtang

Still in Nepal. The lovely China decided to change rules for Tibet-visa, again, actually for the 3rd time since we are here, and this time we would have had to be 4 people of the same nationality in the group going over the border. Well, not going to happen... Not too easy to find 3 finns and 3 polish who want to leave to Tibet on the exact same day as we do. But what ever, one more reason to dislike China and one more reason to stay in Nepal!

And to do some climbing, now also in Hattiban, about 30 min drive away from Kathmando.

But to be stuck for weeks in KTM wasn't really an option so we decided to go to Langtang for trekking. Other option would have been Chitwan, but as we've already been there and it was anyways time to move our lazy asses and maybe get a bit rid of the quickly forming beer belly... So we took a local bus for 9 hours to Suafru Besi where was absolutely no space for legs but apparently space for all the local people wanting to have a ride. We eventually also got there, I was dying on the way a few times, I still can't get used to sitting in a death trap called a bus for hours on the steep serpentine roads. But still, what views we had on the way, amazing!!! This is one of the most beautiful countries I've ever been to for sure.

Early in the morning we left towards Langtang Valley, planning to do a trek for 5-6 days. 3 days up, maybe spending a day in Kyanjin Gomba and then 2 days down. Ha, that's what we thought, but should have know better. We took it easy on the way up, Kate was trying to hurry and do ridiculous days but nope, I'm on holiday and yea maybe we should also acclimatise as we were going to over 4000 meters.

The first surprise was the local plantae. Hmmm...

We stayed in Lama Hotel for the first night, cheap rooms, 200 rupees but the more higher you go, the more expensive the food & drinks are. The most ridiculous was beer for 600 rupees, hell no. But yea, understandable, the people have to carry everything up.

On the second day we reached Langtang village, a small cozy place with an excellent bakery & cheese factory. And the VIEW!!! We thought this is it, but nope, on the next day after 2 hours trek we came to the final destination, Kyanjin Gomba, and yep, it was a place with just ridiculous views, do these kinds of places really exist???

We weren't too tired after the short walk so we started to climb to Kyanjin Ri, a peak in 4700 meters.

Surprisingly our legs felt fine after the 3 days so we thought of going down already on the next day. The plan was to stay one night somewhere on the way but yea, should have know better, of course we walked all the way back to Suafry Besi in one day. At the end it took us 13 hours and we came back in the dark wearing headlamps. Kate's foot was fucked, in all of our feet were quite a few blistered. Bad idea.

Especially as we were stuck in Suafry Besi for a few days coz of a general strike in Nepal. The busses didn't run and the jeeps were either full or the driver didn't want to risk it as there were barricades on the way and people threw rocks at vehicles. On the second day also our little village decided to take part on the event and built “barricades”. Hmmm... And the “mob” was playing cards in the shade...

We managed to get seats on one jeep and it left in the afternoon towards Kathmandu. I was sitting in the front with Kate so it was our job to clear the “barricades” on the way. Well, at the end we only had to move a few rocks. We got back to KTM safe after 5 hours and still here, happy to be in Nepal. Tomorrow I'm off to climb my first multi-pitch in Bimal Nagar with Tashi. Can't wait!!!

What to do, Kathmandu?

From Karnali we went to Bardia National Park for some rhino spotting. There was also a small chance that we might see tigers, but we weren't too lucky this time. It was a fun few days anyways in the nature, walking around in the local villages and hanging in hammocks. We saw 3 rhinos, not from as close distance as in Chitwan last year coz we were on foot but still a precious moment. I just love those creatures with funny ears. Near the park headquarters hangs out a domesticated rhino who's horn I managed to touch. How huge my smile must have been.

From Bardia we took a bus back to Kathmandu, jayzuz, 17 hours in a local bus who used only one driver. Never, ever again! I probably don't have to tell how much I didn't sleep... But it was nice to back “home” again, I really, really like this city. There's something special in this place.

As usual, ever since we've been hanging out a lot in Borderlands office who organizes lots of stuff for us, big thanx especially to Chitra!!! These are also the people we've been having beers with in the evening, sometimes with things getting a bit out of hand. Thanks to Kate for good ideas, having rum in the Monkey temple in the middle of the night was quite a lot of fun.

But it's not been only hanging around here and having beers, I finally go to go climbing again! I haven't been on the walls since January and yea, I could really notice that. Chitra and a few other guys from Borderlands came along as well as Tashi, a local mountaineering guide who's also in a pro level on rock climbing. We went to Nagarjun National Park in Kathmandu where you need a permit for climbing and also as an individual you can't get one, it has to be applied by an agency. Luckily we've got contacts :)

On the next day Tashi's friends were on the walls also so we managed to join them in their permit and went climbing again. This time it was a bit better, as on the first day I was a quite of an disaster because of a small hang over and huge lack of sleep.

But really, I need to climb more. I hope I get new chances latest in Alaska. My arms and back are really sore, too much lack on practice.

Tomorrow morning we move on to the Borderlands camp near Tibetan border and on 12th of May we should be jumping into a jeep/minibus and drive to Lhasa via Himalaya. I hope that'll also happen as there has been a big land slide on the road near Everest and at the moment the road is closed :( Keep your fingers crossed!!!

Rafting down Karnali

Back in Nepal!!!

Finally time to do some updates again. Mid April I landed in one of my absolute favorite countries in the world, Nepal. And of course the partner in crime, Kate, landed a few hours later as she for sure couldn't let me come back here alone. And nothing suits me better!

The first few days we spent in Kathmandu having beers & dinners with friends from last time. We also got a local meal cooked by Tapan, a rafting guide we met last year. And he served us one of the best curries I've had so far in this country. Extra points for the huge amount of coriander and orange vodka.

We also managed to drag our asses out in the day time and went to see Boudhanath, a huge stupa in the outskirts of Kathmandu and we did a day trip to Bhaktapur, a medieval city quite near Kathmandu together with Chitra. But all this was just to kill time before the real purpose of the trip, rafting down Karnali for 10 days.

All was a bit uncertain as the minimum size of the group was 6 and in the beginning there was only 2... But a few days later two norwegians, Erik and Birgit, found their ways to Ultimate Descents office and agreed to join. And finally Nienka from Holland showed up and even though we were only 5, it was decided the trip will take place. Nothing made us happier than the phone call from Chitra telling us the good news. At that moment we were hanging out in a buddhist monastery in Shivapura national park trying to enjoy the peace and quietness. Well, nice experience too but one night was for sure enough for this little lady.

So, enough with this tourist nonsense, let's move on to the river!!!

The trip to Karnali started with 2 days in the bus driving to the western parts of Nepal. The night we spent in a dodgy guesthouse where I had probably all the bed bugs of the country in my bed. The next day I was full of bites, they were absolutely everywhere covering every inch of my skin. But well, bites go away and 4 tablets of antihistamin almost stopped the itching.

The river trip started near a small village where we camped at the first of many sandy beaches. We of course attracted the attention of all the kids (and also grown ups) of the village. I dunno what's so interesting in staring people eat, walk, speak or go to the toilet... Honestly, is there nothing better to do?

But c'mon, the river! Amazing! Clean turquoise water running between sandy riverbanks and mountains in the background. This must be one of the most beautiful places I've ever been to. In the first few days we had the biggest rapids but as we were only 4 girls in the raft we got paddling help from Buddha (who was mainly in the gear boat) and Randy the shark (2nd rafting guide) for the difficult parts. Meaning we were enjoying and the guys, David being the main guide, doing most of the work. And that way it went on the next days too. We took it really easy in the raft, the river moved the boat with a help of occasionally paddling. We did lots of relaxing, swimming and lying in the raft enjoying the view, breeze and company.

Team Nepal was really cool, Kate & I knew a few of them already from last year. The safety kayakers Brian & Indiana Jones tried to teach us kayaking the year before and we failed miserably. So new try again, I took over one of the kayaks for half a day on the 4th day and actually managed to kayak a class 3 rapid without turning over. Which was good as I don't have a clue how to do the eskimo roll and I'm sure Indiana Jones was quite happy he didn't have to be saving me all the time. At least he got good laughs watching me in panic in the big waves.

And we had a MacGyver in the gear boat. The man who fixed the boat with his spit, builded a helicopter while rowing the boat and constructed an oven while everyone else was still sleeping. Good to have him around, dunno how else our tents would have stayed up in the sand storms.

At some point we run out of beer, which is kind of a disaster for group of 2 norwegians, a finn and a polish. On the last night we camped near a village so we finally got stocked up again. And also managed to get a bottle of local rice wine. Yea I know I should keep my fingers out of the stuff but well, I just like it. Fun evening with very bad jokes.

So all in all we spent a fantastic week at Karnali, if you got a chance to go there, do it! We for sure will be doing another longer rafting trip next year in Nepal again.

P.S. Kate is saying hello to her mom.

Big eyes watching me...

Watching the moon at the ferry.

Last days in Sulawesi :´( From Togean we took a night ferry to Gorontalo, the only way to get towards north. Over 12 hours in a huge boat full of mostly local people, who also mostly took a cabin. We bought the cheapest tickets and slept outside on the deck. Which was really nice, the weather was good, not many people outside in the night and even visiting the business class made me shiver. What's the idea of A/C if you need to put on all your clothes and use 2 sleeping bags and still be freezing???

In the morning in Gorontalo we booked into Malati hotel for a few nights. Nice place, really helpful (sometimes even too helpful) staff and free WIFI!!! :) Yea finally online!!!

On the 2nd day we tried to hike to a waterfall but once again, it started to rain and we had to turn back. So we were sliding in the muddy jungle trying not to fall down to spiky plants which were everywhere. All well, after about an hour we got back to the village, wet and had only slightly bloody feet. But I saw a black macaque on the way!!! And I also had a photo session, once again...

I still wanted to see a tarsier before leaving Sulawesi so no other choice than to jump into a kijang again and sit in the car for 13 hours to get to Tangkoko National Park in the northern tip of Sulawesi. And yeah, I finally saw the funniest little monkey with huge eyes and little tiny fingers. So cute!!! Worth all the traveling hours!

Pia is not happy to leave Sulawesi.

And then it was time to leave Sulawesi, snif... We spent the last night in a horrific hotel in Manado and in the morning I left to the airport, Elly back to Togeans. Take a guess into which car I would have rather stepped into... Now I've spent 2 days in Singapore and tomorrow it's time to move on towards Nepal. I try to get excited. And I will for sure the moment I land!!!

Pemalas at Togean Islands...

Pia kiipes palmuun!

Lazy days. After a horrific ride with a local boat in a storm (yes, I was near thinking we'll die...) we got to a small island Poya Lisa near Bomba in Togean. Looked like a paradise and to be honest, if you are a beach&ocean -person, it for sure is! Just a few bungalows, a family owned business and some extremely nice locals bringing you out for snorkeling for free.

I had an own bungalow and 3 fish based fantastic meals a day and they only cost me 11 e a day. Basically nothing, I think I have to move there! The days included only laying in a hammock, listen to waves (or a finnish dude playing ukulele or Elly singing on the pier) and maybe some snorkeling in the clean turquoise sea. And some party in the evenings of course. I thought I'd stay only a few days, then go to Manado and make it still to Kalimantan or Java but why, I can always go there the next time I come to Asia. Which will be in September... So I stayed at Poya Lisa bungalow number 4 (MY bungalow) for a week. Not long enough. Next time it'll be a month. Or months.

I had met only a few finns before I came Bomba but we ended up taking over the place. We were 4! Meaning half of the guests. And all traveling alone, ending up in the same island in the middle of Sulawesi sea. Thank you Juuso, Markus and Taneli for the fantastic time! And of course the rest of the group, especially Oli and Viara.

Only shitty thing happening was that I lost my phone in the first evening. After the 3-hour boat ride in big waves & rain I just needed a beer. And another one. A bit of arak (palm wine) and of course the finnish company also influenced the fact that the evening turned into a night. I probably used the phone as a torch when coming back to my bungalow and haven't seen it since. Shit. I don't care about the phone, but the sim-card & all the numbers. And I can't get a new sim for quite a while. :( But what ever, I loved it there!

After the fantastic week in Poya Lisa I left the island with Elly to visit some more islands at Togean. We stayed one night in Wakai at his mom's house. No one else of the family speaked english and my bahasa indonesia is...well...really, really basic so no big conversations. But nice to stay in with a local family, which was also a brilliant one, especially the kids Ipa and Epan. Funny dudes!

From Wakai we went on to Una Una, a volcano islands about 3 hours away. Elly's cousins also joined us on their way back home and we stayed 3 nights at his uncles, Bakikis, house on the beach. Again, the family spoke hardly any english but hands and few words here and there worked just fine. And of course arak and tuak (jungle beer) makes speaking in languages easier...

I CATHED A FISH!!!

My plan was to climb the volcano but the weather didn't allow it and we had to turn back half way. But what ever, we went fishing instead. Great night, first a few hours fishing, and I actually also GOT fish, then grilling and eating them accompanied by some more arak and the best company, Amat, Obi and of course Elly. I miss the place and the people already sooo much. Only thing I don't miss was the fact that the toilet was the jungle. And being the only foreigner on the island of course everyone was staring all the time where ever I went to and also asked me every time mana, mana, di mana, dari mana??? Yea, what do you think where I'm going to???

Boys got fish too!

After Una Una it was time to get an own bungalow again at Sunset Beach near Wakai. Owned by indonesian-english couple. And take a guess, of course there were again finnish people, this time 2 couples. So we were 5 finns, one french lady and Elly. I still have to wonder how all the finns end up in that place, I met no swedes, no norwegians, no danes, only finns. On the first night Elly and I picked up a “few” liters of tuak from the local village and ended up finishing it all. Which made me quite sick on the 2nd day. But well, where's a hammock, there's a happy Pia.

On the 3rd day we went for a swim in a lake which is isolated from the sea and full of jellyfish. Which don't sting! So you can swim among them, touch them and just be mesmerized. I took loads of pics and of course my “waterproof” camera broke up at some point. Got the pics but the camera is dead. So now I've lost my phone, broke my 2nd camera and also lost my good sunglasses in Toraja. Oh well... As long as I have my passport & credit card I'm just fine. After the swim it was time to leave Togeans (snif :´((( ) and take a ferry to Gorontalo. More about that later...

Bloody funeral

Been busy, been lazy, been without internet for quite a while. So here's the first update of Sulawesi, more coming up later this week... The internet connection sucks at the moment so I'll upload more pics later

I left Makassar behind me as quickly as I could and took a night bus to Rantepao, a small town in Tana Toraja, South Sulawesi. I had high expectations, as the start in Sulawesi wasn't really promising and I already was considering of taking quite quickly a plane back to Borneo or somewhere else in Indonesia. But as always, things turned and Sulawesi started to grow on me and now I love the place, a lot!!!

Tana Toraja is famous for its really, I mean REALLY bloody funerals and bizarre graves on rock formations. There are loads of rice terraces around the beautiful hill landscape and behind every curve&corner pops up funny houses with skillful wood carvings and boat lookalike roofs.

I took a guide for one day as I wanted to visit a funeral in a nearby village. The funerals can last from few days to few weeks, depending how wealthy the family is. But they always include a lot of slaughtering: usually at least pigs and buffalos. I came on the buffalo day. And it was bloody. Originally the belief was that the deceased person needs the buffalos for traveling to the local Valhalla. Now the people of Toraja are christians so the ride isn't necessary anymore, but they still respect the traditional habits and mix old beliefs with christianity.

So, after the priest finished praying and singing they picked up the buffalos which would be slaughtered. Eight were chosen and over half of them were also slaughtered. They give villages also buffalos and they can decide, if they want them to be slaughtered & eaten or auction it and use the money for something else.

The funerals aren't as sad as in Finland, nobody was crying on that day. Instead they sold balloons for kids, beer for grown ups and local guys were playing cards. Well... why not?

On the next day I rented a scooter and was driving by myself around the burial sites and nearby villages. That's they way I like to move on anyways, make my own timetables, go where I want to and hopefully get lost a few times. It was a good day! I also met a few dutch ppl and a finnish girl and had a traditional dinner with them. Good food, but nope, I'm for sure not in Thailand. I miss Tom Yam. But to be honest the food would be the only reason for me to go back to Thailand especially as there are places like Borneo and Indonesia just behind the corner. And to here I'm for sure coming back.

Anyways, from Rantepao I took a bus again towards central Sulawesi. The plan was to go to the remote Togean islands and spend a few days there snorkeling & relaxing. In the bus I met finnish & austrian guys who were heading to the same direction. We made a 2 nights stop at Tentena, a bit over half way to the islands. It was a sleepy small town, very nice people and they had a cool waterfall about 30 minutes scooter drive away from town. I rented a scooter together with Juuso and went there in the afternoon. We had a nice lunch with a bunch of students from Poso, I cant remember any of the names anymore but I've got loads of pics of their faces. A good day! And then it was time to move on towards Togean... More about that paradise later... I didn't stay only a few days...