Asia for beginners -crash course is now over, I've landed in Indonesia. Okay, I can only blame myself as I didn't want to follow the beaten path and go to Java or Bali but decided to make it difficult for myself and explore Sulawesi.
In beforehand I had thought Borneo would be the place where things get difficult but no, I hadn't seen this place yet. I flew from Kuching to Singapore and yes, I've got to admit that Changi lives up to its reputation. Everything WORKS. Not like the next place I had to change planes: Jakarta. NOTHING works. No signs and no staff who knows something. I asked the check-in crew and also the flight attendants if I have to clear customs&get my visa in Jakarta or in Makassar. All told me its in Makassar. But no, actually I had to do it in Jakarta and I also had to change terminals between the flights, with a bus. Which leaves from departures level, not arrivals level. What???
All this would have been nice to know. Lion Air crew told me that I just have to get to the next gate. It took me about an hour to figure out what's even happening and how to get to the other terminal, as everybody is very helpful but don't have a clue what they are telling me. And no guys, I don't want to have your phone numbers and yes, I am traveling alone. I had a good flirt with the immigration officer though, as always haha.
As I finally got to the right plane at least it was nice from the captain to speak also sometimes english. I was the only foreigner in the plane. Luckily next to me sat a nice local dude who was more than helpful, especially as we at some point started to turn and I only understood the word “Bali” from the speakers. Due to bad weather the plane couldn't land in Makassar but had to turn to Bali instead. But I had good chats with Sam and at the end (3AM) we finally reached our destination. I had left the hostel 8AM so it was quite a journey, considering I was only going from Borneo to Sulawesi...
Next problem: bus tickets. No, I can't buy them in the hotel, online or from travel agents in town. I have to go to the bus company's base and for sure they aren't located near to each others or in the town center. So if the bus is full, you have to travel somewhere else and keep your fingers crossed. Meaning get the ticket in advance! I decided to walk to the office but as always, I was getting really confusing information from everyone so taxi was at the end the best option. The busses are really cheap, but after paying taxis there and back and once more there well, that kind of doubles the price. Yes I know I could make it difficult to myself and go with the local mini-busses but it rains like hell, I haven't really slept and I feel like complaining. If you read the blog this far I hope you enjoyed me having a bad day. But if you did it from Finland I'm sure you aren't enjoying the snowrain either haha!
Now to Tana Toraja with a bus, which hopefully leaves in time, takes me to the destination safely and has a toilet. And no pics on this page as I haven't shot any. After TaTor I probably head to Togean Islands for Padi OWD if my bank account allows it.
P.S. ...and all this might have been just me trying to find an excuse to go back to Borneo. Eroahdistus!
Thailand-Borneo-Sulawesi-Singapore-Nepal-China-Japan-LA-Alaska-Jamaica-Iceland. Sounds like a plan. Even though I didn't wanna have one.
Mar 20, 2012
Mar 18, 2012
The frogs & I. And a tattoo!!!
Last day in Borneo. And that makes me really sad. I've grown to love this place, a lot. But I assume it's time to move on, see new places & meet new people. But Sulawesi's better be fantastic or I'll take the next flight back to Borneo. I anyways probably come back here (Kalimantan or maybe even Sabah) for a week or two before my flight to Nepal mid April. But that's something I'll decide later. I might fall in love with Indonesia too, though I doubt it. Which usually means I will haha.
I've spent the last week in Kuching, a lovely small town in Sarawak doing not really much. Because I got a new tattoo! And it's amazing! (jeez I'm using lots of exclamation points...!!!) I had to get a permanent reminder of the fantastic time with the bears (and beer and boys= holy B's :) in Sepilok so I got a pic of Bermuda, the dominant male, tattooed behind my leg. And around it iban tribals made traditional way, which was an experience to remember, I enjoyed every minute even though my facial expression might have told otherwise. Thanks so much Ernesto & Robin (www.borneoheadhunter.com)
Roberto came along and shot some cool pics, so here's a few:
On my last day I went to Santubong, a peninsula about 40 km from Kuching. I thought of doing a short hike and then relax on the beach with a book. But as usual I ended up trekking & climbing for 6 hours (return) to the summit of Santubong mountain, which was for sure worth the time. And sweat. I still don't know how it's possible to sweat so much, all the time. I'd think at some point I'd get used to the climate. But no. But I still enjoy EVERY sweaty moment!!!
I spent quite a while on a small waterfall on the way looking at frogs. Small cute things with camouflage, too lovely!!! The rainforest was again a place to be called paradise, I could imagine building a hut and spending rest of my life there. Not maybe on that one, but the one in Mulu. Ha, maybe I should?
After the hike I had about 20 minutes to spend on the beach. Can't say I really enjoyed it, I was being a tourist attraction for the locals again. Some dude wanted to join me and offered me even beer but nope, really, leave me alone if I'm sweaty and looking very tired. And when I left with the shuttle back to Kuching the driver showed me a photo he had taken earlier. Of me, sitting on the beach. C'mon people!
Yep, this is it :( Got to pack now. I might shear a few tears at the airport tomorrow.
I've spent the last week in Kuching, a lovely small town in Sarawak doing not really much. Because I got a new tattoo! And it's amazing! (jeez I'm using lots of exclamation points...!!!) I had to get a permanent reminder of the fantastic time with the bears (and beer and boys= holy B's :) in Sepilok so I got a pic of Bermuda, the dominant male, tattooed behind my leg. And around it iban tribals made traditional way, which was an experience to remember, I enjoyed every minute even though my facial expression might have told otherwise. Thanks so much Ernesto & Robin (www.borneoheadhunter.com)
Roberto came along and shot some cool pics, so here's a few:
On my last day I went to Santubong, a peninsula about 40 km from Kuching. I thought of doing a short hike and then relax on the beach with a book. But as usual I ended up trekking & climbing for 6 hours (return) to the summit of Santubong mountain, which was for sure worth the time. And sweat. I still don't know how it's possible to sweat so much, all the time. I'd think at some point I'd get used to the climate. But no. But I still enjoy EVERY sweaty moment!!!
I spent quite a while on a small waterfall on the way looking at frogs. Small cute things with camouflage, too lovely!!! The rainforest was again a place to be called paradise, I could imagine building a hut and spending rest of my life there. Not maybe on that one, but the one in Mulu. Ha, maybe I should?
After the hike I had about 20 minutes to spend on the beach. Can't say I really enjoyed it, I was being a tourist attraction for the locals again. Some dude wanted to join me and offered me even beer but nope, really, leave me alone if I'm sweaty and looking very tired. And when I left with the shuttle back to Kuching the driver showed me a photo he had taken earlier. Of me, sitting on the beach. C'mon people!
Yep, this is it :( Got to pack now. I might shear a few tears at the airport tomorrow.
Mar 14, 2012
Feeding wild boars at Bako
A paradise called Bako
Near Kuching, about 30 minutes drive with a minivan & 20 minutes boat ride is Bako national park. It's so near the town that it's a popular day visit destination also for locals, which in a normal case would mean it's overcrowded and dirty, basically ruined. But no, it's absolutely an amazing, serene nature heaven with colorful rock formations, mangrove forests, isolated beaches and jungle of course!
Sure, there are some people during the day but not too many. F.ex. we had the Pandan Kecil beach alone for us (us=our international travel group since Mulu: Cecilia from Australia, Sudda from Sri Lanka, Roberto from Italy and I). Dipping into the sea after a few hours trekking sounded like THE IDEA, but it was not really refreshing as the water was warmer than the air. Nice nevertheless.
There's lots of treks around the park, we did a few of them, enjoyed watching proboscis monkeys both near a beach as well as on the highland during a trek. We also made some close contacts with macaques, who raided our kitchen and ate all the food. They actually opened the kitchen door, emptied the fridge and left all the rubbish in front of our lodge. And that's where the wild boars were having a fiesta. Cecilia and Sudda weren't too happy to be out of chocolate but at least we had a good laugh.
We stayed in the park for one night. I also tried to play an asian board game called Carrom. I might have to practice some more...
Yesterday we came back to Kuching and I changed to the Threehouse hostel where the rest of the group was also staying. I might go back to Bako next week or to some other national park near Kuching. Or to Kalimantan. Or to Java. No idea! And I like it that way!
Today I have a tattoo appointment with Ernesto (www.borneoheadhunter.com), I'm getting a silhouette pic of Bermuda the Sun Bear behind my right leg and a traditional iban tribal around the leg. Made traditional technique. Ouch. More about that later...
Near Kuching, about 30 minutes drive with a minivan & 20 minutes boat ride is Bako national park. It's so near the town that it's a popular day visit destination also for locals, which in a normal case would mean it's overcrowded and dirty, basically ruined. But no, it's absolutely an amazing, serene nature heaven with colorful rock formations, mangrove forests, isolated beaches and jungle of course!
Sure, there are some people during the day but not too many. F.ex. we had the Pandan Kecil beach alone for us (us=our international travel group since Mulu: Cecilia from Australia, Sudda from Sri Lanka, Roberto from Italy and I). Dipping into the sea after a few hours trekking sounded like THE IDEA, but it was not really refreshing as the water was warmer than the air. Nice nevertheless.
There's lots of treks around the park, we did a few of them, enjoyed watching proboscis monkeys both near a beach as well as on the highland during a trek. We also made some close contacts with macaques, who raided our kitchen and ate all the food. They actually opened the kitchen door, emptied the fridge and left all the rubbish in front of our lodge. And that's where the wild boars were having a fiesta. Cecilia and Sudda weren't too happy to be out of chocolate but at least we had a good laugh.
Sudda vs. baby wild boar. Sudda won. |
Yesterday we came back to Kuching and I changed to the Threehouse hostel where the rest of the group was also staying. I might go back to Bako next week or to some other national park near Kuching. Or to Kalimantan. Or to Java. No idea! And I like it that way!
Today I have a tattoo appointment with Ernesto (www.borneoheadhunter.com), I'm getting a silhouette pic of Bermuda the Sun Bear behind my right leg and a traditional iban tribal around the leg. Made traditional technique. Ouch. More about that later...
Mar 9, 2012
Gunung Mulu: caves in a rainforest
So, I finally left Sepilok behind (snif :´(, I miss you guys!!!) and took a flight to Mulu National Park, which is famous for it's amazing, huge, I mean HUGE caves and the untouched rainforest, recognized also by UNESCO.
I had pre-booked the accommodation in the park headquarters and a trip to pinnacle formations in the middle of the rainforest. The flight from Miri to Mulu (luckily there's no roads to this paradise) was already more than promising, the sights from the plane were breathtaking, forests (not oil palm plantations), a snake-look-alike river and clouded mountains. I literarily landed in the lost world. I took it easy on the first eve, did only a 2 km walk to Moonmilk cave. Early on the 2nd day our group headed with a boat towards Camp 5 in the rainforest.
On the way we stopped on 2 caves, the Clearwater and Cave of the Wind. There would also have been a possibility for caving but had to skip this time, I hadn't planned enough days :( But that's a reason to come back! What I for sure will do!
The boat ride from the caves took us along a clear river maybe 45 minutes to a river bench from where we had to walk good 8 km to the camp. I was expecting a very basic, shaggy place with basically no facilities but nope, even the toilets were superb. I had booked the cheapest, most simple trip meaning I had to cook myself and also carry the food to the camp. So I had instant noodles/pasta and crackers for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Yummy...?
We climbed/trekked to the pinnacles on the 2nd day. The guides told us it'll take about 5-6 hours return but it also might take up to 10-11 hours. Half of our group was quite fit and after 1 hour we divided it into 2 groups. Okay, the climb was not easy but also not as hard as I was told in beforehand. It is a trek on a steep mountain, through a jungle and the path is muddy and very slippery. So yes, you have to be fit if you want to make it before it gets dark again. Our group left the camp at 6 am and came back 1 pm with taking long breaks in between. We spent maybe 45 minutes in the top admiring the rock formations while the other trekkers were still on the way up. And that was really rewarding. Absolutely out of this world! Sharp rock formation popping up from the rainforest everywhere! Surreal!
And back in the camp I basically run to the river. I might have been sweating “a bit”. Like in the last 2 months all the time.
On my last day in Mulu one of the guides who was hanging out with us most of time took us to a hill to from where were fantastic views to the mountains as it was full moon. And of course it's more fun to hang out in the darkness when you have loads of beer with you :) I just have to love this country and it's people! How am I supposed to be able to leave? If things go on like this I might just skip Indonesia and stay here. I <3 Borneo. Now I just came to Kuching and the first impressions of this town are really positive. I'm gonna like it here I'm sure.
Btw I'm out of salmiakki!!! I might have to make a trip to Ikea quite soon, though the nearest one is in Singapore... :/ Unless some of you is coming over and can bring me some supplies???
I had pre-booked the accommodation in the park headquarters and a trip to pinnacle formations in the middle of the rainforest. The flight from Miri to Mulu (luckily there's no roads to this paradise) was already more than promising, the sights from the plane were breathtaking, forests (not oil palm plantations), a snake-look-alike river and clouded mountains. I literarily landed in the lost world. I took it easy on the first eve, did only a 2 km walk to Moonmilk cave. Early on the 2nd day our group headed with a boat towards Camp 5 in the rainforest.
On the way we stopped on 2 caves, the Clearwater and Cave of the Wind. There would also have been a possibility for caving but had to skip this time, I hadn't planned enough days :( But that's a reason to come back! What I for sure will do!
The boat ride from the caves took us along a clear river maybe 45 minutes to a river bench from where we had to walk good 8 km to the camp. I was expecting a very basic, shaggy place with basically no facilities but nope, even the toilets were superb. I had booked the cheapest, most simple trip meaning I had to cook myself and also carry the food to the camp. So I had instant noodles/pasta and crackers for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Yummy...?
We climbed/trekked to the pinnacles on the 2nd day. The guides told us it'll take about 5-6 hours return but it also might take up to 10-11 hours. Half of our group was quite fit and after 1 hour we divided it into 2 groups. Okay, the climb was not easy but also not as hard as I was told in beforehand. It is a trek on a steep mountain, through a jungle and the path is muddy and very slippery. So yes, you have to be fit if you want to make it before it gets dark again. Our group left the camp at 6 am and came back 1 pm with taking long breaks in between. We spent maybe 45 minutes in the top admiring the rock formations while the other trekkers were still on the way up. And that was really rewarding. Absolutely out of this world! Sharp rock formation popping up from the rainforest everywhere! Surreal!
And back in the camp I basically run to the river. I might have been sweating “a bit”. Like in the last 2 months all the time.
On my last day in Mulu one of the guides who was hanging out with us most of time took us to a hill to from where were fantastic views to the mountains as it was full moon. And of course it's more fun to hang out in the darkness when you have loads of beer with you :) I just have to love this country and it's people! How am I supposed to be able to leave? If things go on like this I might just skip Indonesia and stay here. I <3 Borneo. Now I just came to Kuching and the first impressions of this town are really positive. I'm gonna like it here I'm sure.
Btw I'm out of salmiakki!!! I might have to make a trip to Ikea quite soon, though the nearest one is in Singapore... :/ Unless some of you is coming over and can bring me some supplies???
Mar 2, 2012
Last days in Sepilok
My time in Sepilok is coming to the end, I'm moving on next Monday :( I can't say I'm happy about the fact but at the same time I'm more than excited to see what'll come along in the next weeks in Sarawak. I'm gonna miss the bears and a few people terribly but hopefully I'll see all of them again some day.
In the bear house life goes on like usual. The new one, Koko, is being a good fun to watch and I'm sure she'll fit into the bunch very well. Mamatai has been surprisingly playful, she's not acting like her name (mau matai=wanna die?) but instead has been playing around and hasn't even barked at anyone for a long while. Well, as we know her, that can change in no time.
Bermuda is enjoying being outside and he's making Oms (other male) life difficult, as they don't really like the company of other males in nearby forest enclosures. I hope they'll get used to eatchothers.
I've more than enjoyed to work with the keepers, always smiling Daniel and David with the weirdest humor ever and other volunteers, especially Cliff and Roshan, and of course the traveller-volunteers who mainly worked with orang utans.
But yes, time to end the journey in Sabah (for now) and soon to fly to Mulu national park in Sarawak for hopefully fantastic time trekking to the Pinnacles before I'm moving on to Kuching on 9th of March.
In the bear house life goes on like usual. The new one, Koko, is being a good fun to watch and I'm sure she'll fit into the bunch very well. Mamatai has been surprisingly playful, she's not acting like her name (mau matai=wanna die?) but instead has been playing around and hasn't even barked at anyone for a long while. Well, as we know her, that can change in no time.
Bermuda is enjoying being outside and he's making Oms (other male) life difficult, as they don't really like the company of other males in nearby forest enclosures. I hope they'll get used to eatchothers.
I've more than enjoyed to work with the keepers, always smiling Daniel and David with the weirdest humor ever and other volunteers, especially Cliff and Roshan, and of course the traveller-volunteers who mainly worked with orang utans.
But yes, time to end the journey in Sabah (for now) and soon to fly to Mulu national park in Sarawak for hopefully fantastic time trekking to the Pinnacles before I'm moving on to Kuching on 9th of March.
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